Sad.....

Back in Bangkok and spent tonight with a few people from the dig, including the awesome Thai grad students who helped our group move more smoothly among Thai society. They are amazing people who became our friends over the course of the fieldschool and I am sad to be leaving here and not know when I will see them again.

My little traveling group has seen some amazing things and there are still more stories from the past month that I need to post on, but for tonight I am just going to be sad that this adventure is just about over and that there are some amazing people who I have been fortunate enough to spend time with and get to know that I will be missing.

Lop-vegas

Lopburi, Thailand is a large town/small city that weirdly enough reminds me of the big town I grew up outside of in West Virginia. If Parkersburg had street markets and vendors and monkeys running around, they would be about the same - both are kind of dated and run down, but still friendly. Apparently Lopburi is also the secret weapon for the Thai military and I am literally surrounded by about a dozen bases and special forces schools. Oddly enough around town people still wear American military apparel, saw a guy with an arm patch that said Ft. Benning, pretty sure there is not one of those here. But there is an airborne base down the street from my hotel, so maybe we have an exchange program? I'll tell you what there is not a lot of...hookers. Not that I was looking or expected it, but there is not a plethora of seedy bars and questionable women. There are a lot of monkeys that will steal your stuff and dogs that look like they want to eat you, but so far no red light district.



I can't mention the monkeys enough, mainly because I don't like them. They are cute for about 2 minutes and then they start looking at you and your realize that they are scoping out what you have and how much they want it. I'm not kidding. One of our first excursions downtown, we were walking back from dinner trying to find a song-tau (cheap taxi - pickup truck with a metal roll cage welded to the bed with bench seats placed inside)



to catch a ride back to the hotel, and we see a monkey sitting on the iron gate encircling a ruined temple. This monkey sees something in the bed of a truck that is coming down the street, jumps from the gate across some lawn, a sidewalk, and a lane of traffic to land in the bed of the moving truck, steals a piece of fruit, and jumps out again. These monkeys do not play around.

The people though are amazing - they think we are interesting to watch because they get few Western foreigners here and we are varying shades of pale which is considered attractive. So for the first time in my life I am exotic. Haha. It's a novel experience, but I am looking forward to blending in again when I get back. They are extraordinarily patient with our lack of Thai and their lack of English - it's amazing what you can accomplish with hand gestures and pantomime.

It's also amazing how alive this town gets in the early evening. It starts getting a bit cooler (although the heat is not intolerable, no worse than Florida in the early summer), and people roll out open door restaurants onto the sidewalk, food carts line up along busy streets and people just pull out of traffic onto the shoulder to grab food. Somtimes they don't even make it to the shoulder, they just stop in the lane and the rest of traffic just moves around them. No angry blaring of horns or yelling. No whistling or yelling from guys either as a group of us girls walk down the street. I love Buddhist countries.

They love pork here, but there is no bacon at breakfast. And Thais don't seem to eat cheese, which is sad and has me craving quesadillas and nachos a lot. The food is good here, but I find myself planning my meals for when I get home. This is kind of ridiculous because there are western restaurants - I had pizza last night (tasted like Pizza Hut) and my favorite food cart is fried chicken made my a sweet Thai woman who laughs at my highly accented Thai thank yous (kop kun ka!). So it's not like I am without comforts of home - I even bought bowls and have been having Fruit Loops in the mornings for breakfast. This doesn't mean I haven't been expanding my horizons. At the dig site, several of the wonderful Thai students who work with us make amazingly beautiful and delicious lunches. This was my first taste of curries and all sorts of Thai fruits (mmm mangosteens!). And you really can't go wrong with simple dishes like pork or chicken and rice. Sadly, this means I have learned I am a non-ferocious bamboo shoot when it comes to spices. A lot of things that the other field school kids think is only mild or worse, not spicy at all, I have a hard time trying to get down. White rice is amazing for cooling your mouth and I'm also drinking a lot of water, as a consequence. So..yay, for hydration, at least.

More to come, but just as an fyi - if you are in Thailand and are trying to buy a drink and they ask you if you want it in a bag - say yes.

I think therefore Siam

Bangkok - May 27-30

What an amazing, loud, busy city. It's like London or D.C. on crack and if they were into street carts and sidewalk salesman. The city smells of food all the time - people are cooking in restaurants, rolling out sidewalk cafes, setting up carts of fresh fruit, noodles, boiled pork (yum!) and some sort of weird hot dog thing that they call sausage, but IS NOT SAUSAGE and made me a little sick to my stomach.

We saw several temples (Sleeping Buddha – largest in the world) and the Grand Palace where the king still performs ceremonial functions, part of the palace area is a Buddhist temple where the Emerald Budda resides *Hint- Buddha is a big theme here*.

It was moving in a way I can’t explain to see people taking off their shoes, going in and kneeling to pray. I was moved, but at the same time was very aware of my own Christianity and didn’t join other non-Thais (read Americans and Europeans) when they kneeled before Buddha too. The beautiful murals and statues and architecture are so grand as to be almost overwhelming and I am still trying to wrap my brain around a place that dates its Historical (written word) period back at least 2,000 years. *Another hint* We Americans only date it back about 200.

It's hot, but not unbearable - reminds me a lot of Florida. The vegetation is more interesting out in the town where we are working out of (Lopburi), just because there is more of it to see. In Bangkok, like any city, it's more concrete than actual jungle. And sadly, I find out, there is no actual jungle. We are in the middle of the country where it’s maybe subtropical, but more temperate forests. The south has the tropical jungles.

Had to take a boat to get to The Grand Palace and the Sleeping Buddha - which was a good time. It sounded almost refreshing since it was hot that day, until you saw and smelled the river. Not as much trash as you would think, but lots of biodegradable refuse like plants and a dead baby pig. Not something you want to go swimming in…or have sprayed on you. It's definitely a bottled water city (and country for that matter) though there are no recycling bins that I have seen...it’s possible this is just done at the trash plants.

Food was a mix of Thai food, a few forays to McDonalds as I craved something familiar, and Thai pizza - which was delicious. Oven backed bread cooked on the thin side so was crispy with mozzarella and tomato paste put on top last. The food here is amazing I have come to find out.

The Temples were beautiful, you had to take your shoes off when you entered, out of respect - so there was a lot of removing of shoes and socks and I kind of wished I had brought flip flops. We also stopped by the Jim Thompson house which was close to our hotel, an interesting story - an American serviceman (served in the OSS during WWII) who liked Thailand and stayed on, building this beautiful conglomeration of several Thai houses into one main structure and making Thai silk what it is today - world renowned and wanted. And then on a visit to friends in Malaysia he just disappears while on a walk. Crazy. But his business continues and you can tour his house and gardens which are amazing. You have to remove your shoes – it’s customary to do this in Thai houses since they normally eat sitting on the floor and you want to keep it clean. Of course, I didn't see the signs initially and stepped inside and was about to take a picture when I was reprimanded by the staff. I hate making cultural faux pas like that.

Next updates will be about Lopburi and the dig - Bangkok was fun and interesting, but I'm no city girl and jet lag had me in bed by 9 or 10 each night.

Siam so far away...

So I think I am going to start calling the places I want to visit by the old names - Siam...Indja (which just might be Nicole Kidman's accent, but sounds awesome anyway)...these might be colonial and therefore not politically correct, but how cool is it to say 'I am going to Siam'. Makes me think of pith helmets, handlebar mustaches, steamer ships taking you to far away and exotic locales...and then attacking, colonizing and exploiting their natural resources....ok, we are going to just forget that last part. This trip we are going to think more The King and I (which is where it is actually set) and less Joseph Conrad and his awful Heart of Darkness. This is exotic and spicy Thailand, not horribly depressing Congo.

I fly out in roughly 7 hours and I think I am going to treat the family to cinnamon rolls as we are getting ready in the morning. Hmm, pillsbury.

Fingers crossed I can fit all of my stuff into my bags. My minimalist plan seems to have some holes and it would probably have been easier to consolidate my bulky bags into my one big suitcase. Oy vey.

I'm off to bed to get a few hours sleep, see you all in about 21 hrs and another hemisphere.

Correspondance

Final days of the semester and Monday will be the true test on how things go. For Stats I have to maintain at least a B- to remain in good standing with my program and sadly the first test did not begin the semester well. But I've rallied since then and 8 am Monday will be the make or break moment.

Have I mentioned before how much I love Netflix? Not just for the cheap movies coming within three days, but increasingly for the Watch Now feature which opens up all kinds of options. Almost all seasons of South Park are available (excellent for background noise when doing research) and tons of documentaries, which I have been kind of addicted to lately. Some of the most recent are Bigger, Stronger, Faster follows a brother's look into steroid use in America (and his family) and Jihad of Love, which follows the lives of several gay men and women in the Muslim world - interesting portrayals and perspectives all around.

One of my most recent viewings (though this was an actual DVD) was The Shop Around the Corner - what You've Got Mail was based on. It's a brilliant movie with Jimmy Stewart and Margaret Sullivan and takes place in Hungary--of all places. You would expect New York or Chicago, but Budapest seems so far away and exotic. And you wouldn't have known it was Hungary at all, there wasn't any incorporation of Hungarian culture - it could have been New York or the town Jimmy Stewart's George Bailey was from.

I love the premise, the idea that two people can meet and connect over letters. This doesn't necessarily have to be about love, but just mutual interests and curiosity. Which is, I suppose, exactly what the blogosphere is now. People posting their thoughts and musings ranging from being a military spouse to the trials and tribulations of internet dating, which is a hilarious experience, by the way. And you when your done writing you post it out into the ethos, like a giant yellow post-it on the cork board at work. And then people find your post-it as they are Googling or reading someone who read someone who read you once and put it on their blog role. I think we need a new incarnation of the story; first letters then e-mail now it should be a blog - So and so has posted on your blog - not catchy, but I'm putting the idea out there. : )

Traffic

Why is it so incredibly satisfying to honk your horn at someone? I don't do it very often and always hesitate to make sure that this really is the right moment. But once that moment has been determined and is a go - man, it's amazing. Honking seems to perfectly express that righteous sense of indignation, especially when you accompany it with the 'you're an idiot' headshake and/or the hand(s) in the air 'what the hell are you doing' gesture.

I used the standard honk and shake today. There I am at the light, getting ready to pull out and beat the car full of guys at the acceleration race (silly but legal and not dangerous). Green light - I'm accelerating! - and then some idiot at the corner pulls out as if to cut in front of me and then stops. In the intersection. W.T.F. On-coming traffic + red light = stay behind the line. I quickly decelerate and he sits there and stares at me for a good 5 - 10 seconds (like he's wondering what I'm doing pulling forward with a green light), he finally finishes his right hand turn and I respond with the car form of Cesar's (Dog Whisperer) training touch. Somebody needs to learn some boundaries, rules, and limitations.

Dig Prep Update

Slowly accumulating the things I need. I got my hiking backpack in today! So one more thing off my list.

International

So what does it take to get from North Carolina to Bangkok, Thailand? Apparently $1,079 and 9,000 miles. Holy crap. Count down to that adventure beings...now.

Crisis of Competence

Big stats test coming up on Wednesday, got to do well.....actually, after I failed my first stats test (seriously, like the first time I have failed anything since Honors Intro. to Oceanography sophomore year of college - apparently I hate the ocean and how it works) I have to get an A on everything to get my passing B. Awesome, I love adding the stress of trying no to get kicked out of my program to the regular stresses of class. The good news is that I understand what we are doing...ANOVAs can be kind of fun.

On the thesis front, things have actually started. Spent two hours at Chapel Hill analyzing my first skeleton. For the first 20 minutes I had a crisis of competence when I realized that enthusiasm and love for what I'm learning doesn't make up for actually needing to be able to apply that information. This is the BIG project and my methods and general analysis need to be accurate - my future as a bio-anthropologist literally depends on it. And of course the first bone I look at (radius) I mis-side. Ah!...crap. This is why Bass' bone manual is now my constant companion. And I am more OCD than usual, re-checking the bone over and over to make sure I didn't miss anything. It'll work out, just got to repeat what my thesis mentor said to me...it's just a master's thesis, it's just a masters thesis. As if shrug no big deal.

Here's something fun for the kids at home...we've been learning about non-metric traits...little weird things on the bones that occur because of occupation or genetics. People are trying to use them as indicators of family association, which I find interesting. Anyway, stand beside a table and place your hands flat on the surface, keeping your arms straight. If the inside of your elbow pushes forward beyond the normal 180 degree straight line of your arm, then congratulations! you probably have a septal aperture. Which is basically just an extra foramen (hole) in the bottom of your humerus where your ulna attaches (olecranon process). *See picture*


(from Septal Aperture of the Humerus in a Mediaeval Human Skeletal Population by Simon Mays)

This has been associated primarily with females, but newer research has shown that it is in both sexes. One of my profs. has done work in the Balkans (helping with identification after the genocide in the late 90's) and found this trait in the male population there. Interesting stuff.

Oh Hopewell

So much homework....tonight will be an all nighter...ugh. But part of what I am working on tonight is combing a massive database on the Hopewell Indian culture for information on aged remains. They were moundbuilders in the center of Ohio and their influence spread out from WV to the Dakotas. Pretty neat stuff, I grew up across the river from the mounds in Marietta, Ohio. Although, my professor says this particular mound wasn't Hopewellian, but an earlier group.

Interesting that burial mounds were so prolific throughout the Mid-west and South. Even more so because it was practices by several different cultures. Early anthropological theory would say this is probably because of diffusion, one group came up with it and others thought it was a neat idea. I am not a big diffusionist though, at least not without actual proof. I figure the mounds are a product of independent invention. Some cultures (Hopewell, Mississippians, etc) came up with the idea and, because their cultures were so extensive and far-reaching, mounds popped up around the better part of the Mid-west and South.

Conus Mound in Marietta, Ohio.
Built by the Adena Indians, later a revolutionary war and early settler cemetery was built around it.

Image grabbed from James Jacobs archaeoblog: http://www.jqjacobs.net/blog/marietta.html

Love a little iron, A little protein

*sigh* There is nothing on this world better than a grilled steak filet with a nice warm, red center. I haven't had one since New Year's and it had left a lot to be desired. So with a little money that the dad sent me, I took myself out to a wonderful steak dinner at the Texas Roadhouse. Hmmm Dallas filet. Amazing. Of course, everyone else had the same idea on a Saturday night and I was able to find a single seat at the bar. The bar can be kind of a fun place, you end up having conversations with random people and hearing some pretty crazy stories. For instance, last night.

So, I'm sitting there working on some homework and looking over some thesis stuff...loving! the wonderful rolls they have there. This dude sits down and eventually strikes up a conversation, mainly he's just talking about his job, his life and where he likes to hang out. I mention a bar that a friend of mine likes to go to when we all go out and that leads to a conversation on why he got barred from a bar. This story involved a bar fight that consisted of the older opponent ending up in critical condition and the dude I was talking to being arrested for several felonies including assault and attempted murder. Holy Shit! Apparently, over this guy's 40 or so years he had never been in trouble and it got dropped down to misdemeanors. And his opponent made a full recovery. Crazy. First time I'd had a conversation with a dude who had been charged with something you hear about on Law and Order.

All right, lunch time, got to go make my delicious delicious wrap. And then finishing homework because sadly, vacation is over tomorrow.

Hmm

Sadly, sadly spring break is winding down and I have to actually make sure I get homework done instead of making really good plans for what I will be doing tomorrow. Seriously, based on the massively detailed and amazingly complex and hopeful iteneraries I make for myself, you would I think I was actually getting stuff done...but I'm not. Although, I can feel a little better because thesis work did get done...poster presentation that will be presented next week is just about done...and my several mental health days that I took when I ran away to the mom's house for puppies and food were amazing.

On another note, Thailand bioarch trip is getting closer. My first field school AND I get to dig up bones! I have to pay for it and buy my tickets soon, but I am officially on the list to go. So exciting! Can't believe I will be in the country of the King and I...way too bad that Yul Brynner will not be there. But there are elephants and a tiger preserve that I am hoping to go see and unfortunately, monkeys. I hate monkeys. They are so dirty and they come up and steal your stuff. And I have no idea what to do if I am approached. And they are in the town we will be staying in, just wondering around. Luckily, though, they aren't so much around the Buddhist temple where we are digging. And it really is getting closer, we just got an email from our prof. detailing things we will need. How we have to wear shirts with at least short sleeves and long pants when we dig to respect the Buddhist ideas on modesty (really this is just for the girls, but our prof. decided everyone should be the same - which is nice). Ah! I am getting so excited, this trip is going to so awesome. I need to start making lists of things I need to do and get before I leave, so far I know I need rain poncho, maybe hiking shoes, a shiny new trowel for digging, and probably several drugs (multi-stage antibiotic for traveller's stomach issues and possibly something for malaria - though hopefully not the one that the Army was giving out and made some of the soldiers go crazy - small statistic, I know, but still).

Found a new blog through another blog I am reading, Delta Whiskey is an awesome cook. She takes pictures of her food as she cooks it and gives some really good instructions and reasons for some substitutions. I am still learning about cooking so I find her info really helpful. Plus, she's pretty funny, so check her out.

Finally, what has happened to Big Tobacco? On the right side of my blog there is a growing list of blogs I read and one of them is from a staff sgt writing from Iraq. He was updating pretty regularly and then all of a sudden his website doesn't exist. This is probably a bad sign considering where he was - meaning someone higher up the chain got pissed. Anyone have any ideas?

Ok, off to work.

Snow Day!

Was warned by my pop yesterday to make sure I have plenty of food and supplied for the incoming snow storm. Ha. It never snows here, people just freak out and buy all the water and milk and then nothing happens. So I went to sleep last night figuring I would get up early and read some before class. I woke up to a call from one of my cohort asking if school was still a go. And outside my window was beautiful snow...and even now in the early afternoon it is still snowing! It snowed so hard and the wind blew so much last night that my recycling bin, sitting by my door and protected by the covered walkway, has a thin covering of snow on it. Good thing I went to the store a couple of days ago, I have plenty of soup and grilled cheese and mt dew to last me until it melts. Which will probably be tomorrow. But I did go out and play a bit and made a snowball. Ah snow days. Reminds of elementary school and praying the night before that God would just please please let school be canceled.




We have a new president today and I found myself getting choked up a little as the procession made their way to their seats. So many people standing out in the cold watching this, even if they can't really see it without the jumbotrons. The mall is covered with people. Amazing when it's even colder up there. The big thing though will be how Jon Stewart is going to be able to make fun of this tonight on The Daily Show.