Lopburi, Thailand is a large town/small city that weirdly enough reminds me of the big town I grew up outside of in West Virginia. If Parkersburg had street markets and vendors and monkeys running around, they would be about the same - both are kind of dated and run down, but still friendly. Apparently Lopburi is also the secret weapon for the Thai military and I am literally surrounded by about a dozen bases and special forces schools. Oddly enough around town people still wear American military apparel, saw a guy with an arm patch that said Ft. Benning, pretty sure there is not one of those here. But there is an airborne base down the street from my hotel, so maybe we have an exchange program? I'll tell you what there is not a lot of...hookers. Not that I was looking or expected it, but there is not a plethora of seedy bars and questionable women. There are a lot of monkeys that will steal your stuff and dogs that look like they want to eat you, but so far no red light district.
I can't mention the monkeys enough, mainly because I don't like them. They are cute for about 2 minutes and then they start looking at you and your realize that they are scoping out what you have and how much they want it. I'm not kidding. One of our first excursions downtown, we were walking back from dinner trying to find a song-tau (cheap taxi - pickup truck with a metal roll cage welded to the bed with bench seats placed inside)
to catch a ride back to the hotel, and we see a monkey sitting on the iron gate encircling a ruined temple. This monkey sees something in the bed of a truck that is coming down the street, jumps from the gate across some lawn, a sidewalk, and a lane of traffic to land in the bed of the moving truck, steals a piece of fruit, and jumps out again. These monkeys do not play around.
The people though are amazing - they think we are interesting to watch because they get few Western foreigners here and we are varying shades of pale which is considered attractive. So for the first time in my life I am exotic. Haha. It's a novel experience, but I am looking forward to blending in again when I get back. They are extraordinarily patient with our lack of Thai and their lack of English - it's amazing what you can accomplish with hand gestures and pantomime.
It's also amazing how alive this town gets in the early evening. It starts getting a bit cooler (although the heat is not intolerable, no worse than Florida in the early summer), and people roll out open door restaurants onto the sidewalk, food carts line up along busy streets and people just pull out of traffic onto the shoulder to grab food. Somtimes they don't even make it to the shoulder, they just stop in the lane and the rest of traffic just moves around them. No angry blaring of horns or yelling. No whistling or yelling from guys either as a group of us girls walk down the street. I love Buddhist countries.
They love pork here, but there is no bacon at breakfast. And Thais don't seem to eat cheese, which is sad and has me craving quesadillas and nachos a lot. The food is good here, but I find myself planning my meals for when I get home. This is kind of ridiculous because there are western restaurants - I had pizza last night (tasted like Pizza Hut) and my favorite food cart is fried chicken made my a sweet Thai woman who laughs at my highly accented Thai thank yous (kop kun ka!). So it's not like I am without comforts of home - I even bought bowls and have been having Fruit Loops in the mornings for breakfast. This doesn't mean I haven't been expanding my horizons. At the dig site, several of the wonderful Thai students who work with us make amazingly beautiful and delicious lunches. This was my first taste of curries and all sorts of Thai fruits (mmm mangosteens!). And you really can't go wrong with simple dishes like pork or chicken and rice. Sadly, this means I have learned I am a non-ferocious bamboo shoot when it comes to spices. A lot of things that the other field school kids think is only mild or worse, not spicy at all, I have a hard time trying to get down. White rice is amazing for cooling your mouth and I'm also drinking a lot of water, as a consequence. So..yay, for hydration, at least.
More to come, but just as an fyi - if you are in Thailand and are trying to buy a drink and they ask you if you want it in a bag - say yes.
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